How to tell if your Timing Belt has been Changed | Is Going Bad or needs to be Replaced
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5 سال پیش
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This is a good way
This is a good way to tell if your timing belt is about to break, snap, or fail on your. They do have a lifespan and changing the belt is critical so you do not experience catastrophic engine failure.
#bundysgarage #hondarepair #socalhonda
Link to crankshaft bolt removal: DIY: Honda / Acura: Crankshaft Bolt R...
I did the timing belt on our Acura Honda J Series V6, Accord, Pilot, Ridgeline, MDX, TL CL today. In a nutshell, it was a very pleasant experience. I've been conditioned to think that timing belts should be avoided at all costs and that they're difficult to replace (and they may be in some cases), almost necessitating a large garage bill every 100k miles.
I give at least half of the credit for my success to Bundys Garage. I watched his YouTube video on replacing a Honda J-series timing belt. He said that the video will provide all the confidence needed to do the job, and he was right. He goes through bolt-by-bolt through the entire job, stopping to show the differences between the two different kinds of timing belt tensioners (our MDX had the grenade pin type). He also recommended to tackle the crankshaft pulley bolt first, before everything else, because if you can't get that off you simply can't do the job.
I did that last night, to ensure that I was good to go for today. I got the bolt off by using the Honda crankshaft holder tool rented at O'Reilly Auto Parts and wedging the breaker bar, against my garage floor, at about the 7:00 position. I was of course pulling on another breaker bar on the bolt itself, counterclockwise. After much consternation, that bolt came loose.
I also had zero trouble moving the power steering pump out of the way, and getting the timing covers off. I did this before my friend came over (soldier with some wrenching experience). Here's the nekkid timing belt area, with the side engine mount still in place: Here's a view at the bottom, at the crankshaft sprocket: Fast forward some, and we have the side engine mount off (engine supported with a jack and 2x4), the belt off, the idler and tensioner pulleys off, the tensioner itself off, and the old water pump off. In fact, the new water pump is already on.
The timing belt fought us while attempting to get it on, but the reference marks are very easy to see on this engine. The crankshaft sprocket has a small arrow at 12:00 that lines up with an arrow on the block. Both camshaft sprockets have marks that line up with marks on the cylinder heads. Very easy to do and nearly impossible to mess up. The problem was, the rear camshaft just BARELY stays at what I will call the 12:00 position (mark straight up and down, to match the reference mark on the cylinder head). Rotate it clockwise just a touch and it'll snap over to about the 4:00 position. Rotate it counterclockwise just a touch and it'll snap back to about the 8:00 position. At first, this scared me to death, but after moving it back and forth with a wrench (which is much easier said than done), I found that there is apparently no piston-to-valve contact...at least not in the exact position the crankshaft was in (with #1, on the rear bank, at TDC). To help eliminate camshaft “jumping” you can remove the spark plugs, relieving pressure within the cylinder. It’s also a good idea, at the 100,000 miles mark, to replace the spark plugs with NGK and do a valve adjustment, as well as valve cover seals and new oil tube seals within the valve cover. Mahle is a great brand you can get at rockauto.com
More About Bundys Garage:
https://goo.gl/qv3Wzc
Questions, Comments, Concerns:
[email protected]
Twitter:
Twitter: bundysgarage
@bundysgarage
On The Web:
http://www.bundysgarage.com
Music by Randall Kent: As seen on NCIS
Randall Kent - Going Home (Featured o...
All Rights Reserved 2019
© Copyright 2019
Bundys Garage
All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed in whole or part with out the express written permission. Contact: [email protected]
DISCLAIMER - DISCLAIMER - DISCLAIMER
Due to factors beyond the control of BundysGarage, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. BundysGarage assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. BundysGarage recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of BundysGarage, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the end user and not BundysGarage nor any of it’s subsidiaries.
#bundysgarage #hondarepair #socalhonda
Link to crankshaft bolt removal: DIY: Honda / Acura: Crankshaft Bolt R...
I did the timing belt on our Acura Honda J Series V6, Accord, Pilot, Ridgeline, MDX, TL CL today. In a nutshell, it was a very pleasant experience. I've been conditioned to think that timing belts should be avoided at all costs and that they're difficult to replace (and they may be in some cases), almost necessitating a large garage bill every 100k miles.
I give at least half of the credit for my success to Bundys Garage. I watched his YouTube video on replacing a Honda J-series timing belt. He said that the video will provide all the confidence needed to do the job, and he was right. He goes through bolt-by-bolt through the entire job, stopping to show the differences between the two different kinds of timing belt tensioners (our MDX had the grenade pin type). He also recommended to tackle the crankshaft pulley bolt first, before everything else, because if you can't get that off you simply can't do the job.
I did that last night, to ensure that I was good to go for today. I got the bolt off by using the Honda crankshaft holder tool rented at O'Reilly Auto Parts and wedging the breaker bar, against my garage floor, at about the 7:00 position. I was of course pulling on another breaker bar on the bolt itself, counterclockwise. After much consternation, that bolt came loose.
I also had zero trouble moving the power steering pump out of the way, and getting the timing covers off. I did this before my friend came over (soldier with some wrenching experience). Here's the nekkid timing belt area, with the side engine mount still in place: Here's a view at the bottom, at the crankshaft sprocket: Fast forward some, and we have the side engine mount off (engine supported with a jack and 2x4), the belt off, the idler and tensioner pulleys off, the tensioner itself off, and the old water pump off. In fact, the new water pump is already on.
The timing belt fought us while attempting to get it on, but the reference marks are very easy to see on this engine. The crankshaft sprocket has a small arrow at 12:00 that lines up with an arrow on the block. Both camshaft sprockets have marks that line up with marks on the cylinder heads. Very easy to do and nearly impossible to mess up. The problem was, the rear camshaft just BARELY stays at what I will call the 12:00 position (mark straight up and down, to match the reference mark on the cylinder head). Rotate it clockwise just a touch and it'll snap over to about the 4:00 position. Rotate it counterclockwise just a touch and it'll snap back to about the 8:00 position. At first, this scared me to death, but after moving it back and forth with a wrench (which is much easier said than done), I found that there is apparently no piston-to-valve contact...at least not in the exact position the crankshaft was in (with #1, on the rear bank, at TDC). To help eliminate camshaft “jumping” you can remove the spark plugs, relieving pressure within the cylinder. It’s also a good idea, at the 100,000 miles mark, to replace the spark plugs with NGK and do a valve adjustment, as well as valve cover seals and new oil tube seals within the valve cover. Mahle is a great brand you can get at rockauto.com
More About Bundys Garage:
https://goo.gl/qv3Wzc
Questions, Comments, Concerns:
[email protected]
Twitter:
Twitter: bundysgarage
@bundysgarage
On The Web:
http://www.bundysgarage.com
Music by Randall Kent: As seen on NCIS
Randall Kent - Going Home (Featured o...
All Rights Reserved 2019
© Copyright 2019
Bundys Garage
All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed in whole or part with out the express written permission. Contact: [email protected]
DISCLAIMER - DISCLAIMER - DISCLAIMER
Due to factors beyond the control of BundysGarage, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. BundysGarage assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. BundysGarage recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of BundysGarage, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the end user and not BundysGarage nor any of it’s subsidiaries.
5 سال پیش
در تاریخ 1398/05/01 منتشر شده
است.
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